Friday 13 November 2020

Summer & Autumn 2020: South West

Now that we often wake ensconced in fog, the balmy days of early September are wrapped in a golden, nostalgic glow. But I did promise that I would give you the third chapter of my tour of the UK.

From North Wales I proceeded to the South West of England; to the shores of the Severn, then on to Dorset and home, via Southampton and the New Forest. 

I spent a week in South Gloucester seeing family. I so enjoyed mooching round Thornbury – shout out to Lions used-book shop, drinking coffee at Hawkes House and meeting the local llama community – yes really! I found plenty of opportunities to walk in South Gloucestershire. Perhaps the most impressive views were found on the day I took a 9km walk in the Malverns to British Camp Hill Fort. British Camp is a scheduled monument that was once an Iron Age hill-fort; you can see for miles around from the monument, making it a very defendable location. The incredible heights don’t come for free; at an elevation of 1,109 ft, I felt this walk in my knees in the following days! But there was at least an ice-cream reward from the kiosk at the end.


The time I spent in Dorset was all too brief. I was based in a chocolate box village, just south of Blandford Forum in a gorgeous B'n'B. Unfortunately I can't link you to the listing as the B'n'B is now permanently closed. Whilst in Dorset I had the opportunity to explore the coast west of Swanage. I walked a circular route along the Jurassic coast, encompassing Dancing Ledge, the picturesque village of Worth Travers and returned along the clifftops along the aptly(-if-prematurely)-named, Priest’s Way. In the village of Worth Travers there is a famous pub called The Square and Compass. One of only nine institutions across the country to have been in every CAMRA beer guide the pub is stolidly traditional, refusing to modernise its interiors for passing fashion. To my surprise they did take cards, but I suspect this is a consequence of COVID. Whilst the drinks offering included a range of different beers and local ciders, this pub is famous for its sole food offering – pie. You can have pie with meat or pie without; those are the options. It was interesting that some tourists really didn’t understand the concept and swiftly dismissed it as being not worth the queuing time because the food offering was so restrictive – no my friends, this is what makes it worth a visit!




My final port of call on the journey back to the South East was to see my sister in Southampton. I don’t remember having been to Southampton before, maybe I have. I didn't spent that much time in Southampton itself, although trying to find a place to brunch before 11 on a weekday was a challenge; but I used it as a base to explore the wider area. We had a lovely afternoon’s walk in the New Forest, communing with the ponies and spotting different types of deer. We also took a drive to Lymington which is a very pretty port-town. The main high street could be accused of being identical with many other high streets, but the marina has plenty small boutiques to visit. There are lots of places to sit in the marina and we did just that, with our ice-creams, watching the ships come in with the day’s catch.




And then, just like that, the tour was done. I returned to the South East and to theological training, to writing my Grandpop’s eulogy, and finding beauty in fog and autumn leaves...of which more soon, I am sure. I am also conscious though that Winter is coming, and by consequence Christmas. I have read several excellent books by women this year which I look forward to reviewing for you, so keep your eyes peeled.