Tuesday 30 January 2018

Country: Sierra Alhamilla & Tabernas Desert

When I booked my holiday to the Cabo de Gata I had a number of choices about where to stay; the city of Almería - urban, well connected, beaches possible; the coast - bit difficult to get to, bit remote if don't like; the mountains - friendly host, oceans of history, bit remote but close to many interesting things; reader I chose the mountains.

In my initial post I told you a little bit about the village where I stayed, Níjar. This time I'd love to share some of the gems north of the village. Níjar is an old village on the edge of an ancient valley. When the Arabs had control of the region they built an incredible water management system which allowed them to live long-term in the area. The water system is still extant today; more on this later.

One day we took a drive up into the mountains of the Sierra Alhamilla. It is not a drive for the faint hearted; the roads are narrow and full of pot-holes, but you will be well rewarded for leaving the well-trodden path. Within 20 minutes of leaving Níjar we reached this abandoned house; well warned about the snakes I was free to explore the house and its neighbouring threshing-floor where people threshed the wheat over 1000 years. As we continued through the Alhamilla we saw so many plants and animals and I could tell why they felt so happy there as it was so tranquil. Man has clearly made his mark in the Alhamilla; there are plenty of hunting lodges and a couple of satellite stations but in a broadly unobtrusive and respectful way to the landscape.

(Abandoned house)


(Threshing floor)

The famous exception to this is the city of Los Millares, a Chalcolithic settlement and the home of the Bronze Age; it is at Los Millares that they worked out the metallurgy for bronze. As we crossed the Tabernas desert to this famous archaeological site it was awe inspiring to think that we were likely driving the same route as these early pioneers. When we got to the site they had just closed for the day which was a shame but we got to see it and the drive over was truly sensational. The Tabernas Desert is the largest desert in Europe and as such was a cheap location for filming Westerns in the 20th century. I think you can see why!

(Into the Tabernas Desert)

(Tabernas)

Now, I did say I'd tell you more about these water systems. I got up-close and personal with them on one Saturday afternoon when it was suggested I go on a little walk up to the next village, Huebro, for a swim in the reservoir. Heartened by the promise it would only take an hour and the route marked 'facil' I set off. The first 20 minutes or so following the painted signs was easy, but then the markers disappeared. I had to guess the route. At first this was quite fun, I felt like Indiana Jones having slid down into the valley floor, climbing through the undergrowth. But it soon became apparent to me that this was not the route. I was stuck by this stage, surrounded by trees and shrubs, wondering what other animals were sat with me looking at a wall of rock and alluvial sand 3 metres high. How was I going to get out? I had no phone signal and there was no-one around because it was siesta time. I started to really regret being there the decision of a little afternoon walk. It took me three attempts to climb out of this tight spot, every time I stopped to review my progress up the wall if my foot was on compacted sand and not rock I slid back down and had to start again! When I eventually got to the top of the wall, I rolled through brambles to get out - my legs and arms were bruised and scratched but miraculously I was otherwise OK. I carried on my walk to Huebro in a state of shock, and awe at the archaeology. Huebro itself was nice enough, I drank two fanta lemons, ate a sandwich, did not swim in the reservoir as it was more algae than water by the afternoon, and then set off home again. Like the Wise Men I returned via another route...

(Maximising irrigation for agriculture)

(Industrial archaeology)

So the countryside of the Alhamilla and Tabernas - not to be underestimated, but stunning; best viewed in a car that can off-road, although I hear the caving and official(!) climbing opportunities are also good fun.


(Walking away from Huebro)

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