Venice: TGT Episode 6

Venezia: Venusia - land of drama and expense.

Population: 270, 843

Accommodation: Glass-blowers apartment on Campo San Maurizio through airb'n'b (highly recommend - central, high-spec apartment)

Highlights: Rialto bridge, Teatro Goldoni, Chiesa santa Maria della Consolazione, Arsenale, all of Castello.

So we arrived in Venice, this theatrical island where cars are rendered useless and delivering post requires a very clever trolley to mount the never ending stairs. There are several ways to get on and off the island; we arrived by train, naturally, but picked the rest of the family up on the airport ferry.

(View from the bedroom window)

We stayed in Venice for 4 days during high-season and there were people everywhere crowding the alleys, particularly at St Marks where you can expect to queue for over an hour to visit the church or climb the tower. We arrived early in the morning, queued for one hour but got the basilica to ourselves.

(View from the Basilica roof)

(Illicit photo inside the Basilica)

Venice is at its most magical when we explored at night. Coursing down the Rialto on top deck, with all the gothic buildings up-lit really was magical. As was another walk we went on after dinner one night - hearing the bands play on the San Marco square and walking winding alleys reminiscent of Medieval Shambles in York. Both of these were close to nightmarish during the day when there were people everywhere!

(Night-time Venice; musicians at St Marks)

One evening we went to a really eccentric Italian play with English subtitles at the Teatro Goldoni. The audience were mainly English tourists and the players all wore masks. It was a bit odd and reinforced my opinion that Venice is all about the drama.

(Rialto bridge)

During the day one of the best things we did was leave the central area of St Marks and explore Castello. The roads are wider, there are fewer gondolas with men singing the cornetto song (Mum says those blokes were the highlight of her holiday), food became more affordable and authentic too, we even found a supermarket. You also finally escape the street sellers with their fake handbags!

(Peace)

(Arsenale)

There are also churches in this area that are gorgeous and far less busy. Key mention here goes to Chiesa santa Maria della Consolazione one of the only buildings in all of Venice that John Ruskin actually liked, constructed 1470. We also enjoyed the hospital with its water taxis and long walks by the Arsenale - look carefully and you will spot 4 lions each in its own architectural style.

(Chiesa santa Maria)

For us, Airb'n'b changed everything, we wouldn't have afforded hotel rooms or to eat out all the time. There were definite advantages to living on the island, gelato less than 20 metres from my bedroom, seeing the sites without the crowds, being able to nip home for a siesta. Another time there are still other things I'd love to explore but I reckon they could be included in a day trip.

(The bus stop)

Munich: TGT Episode 3

Population: 1.378 million

Highlights: Unironic lederhosen, the Third Reich tour, Sausage at Bratwurst Glöcklein (The Sausage Bell), a rail service named Bob.

Accommodation: Air b’n’b room.

(Milkmaid vogue)

Munich itself epitomises all the stereotypes I used to hold about Germany; lederhosen, milk maid outfits, lots of sausage and pork knuckle delicacies, beer halls and beer –I drank one from a 14^th century brewery) and architecture reminiscent of Christmas toy-towns.

(Lunch at Bratwurst Glöcklein)

Munich has a long association with toys and toy making, so we were excited to see the Toy Museum one gloomy morning, but were a bit disappointed. It wasn’t very big and the displays weren’t that imaginative. But I think I am forever scarred by the teddy skeleton and Barbie in her original butter-milk hue.

(1960's Barbie with bob)

One of the best things we did during our time in Munich was a 3-hour walking tour covering the history of the Third Reich in Munich. That sounds like a strange sentiment, let me explain. Munich was the birthplace of Hitler’s Germany, the site of the Beer Hall Putsch, his failed revolution, and several communist uprisings that would shape the future of the Nazi party. All the events on the GCSE History syllabus (1918-39) were happening in Munich – and unlike in Berlin where history is blatant, you really need a guide to point out the clues. The reality that Munich was the breeding ground for so much hatred is very quietly brushed under the carpet such that this gold stream through the pavement counts as one of the only memorials in the city. I also learned on this tour that Germany was created in France, how contrary.

(Hofbräuhaus München - mid-tour)

(Memorial. Source: Around the world in 5 months)

Had we had better weather or more time we’d both have liked to go to Chiemsee, me for the Benedictine nunnery (founded 782) and Dad for the trains. Also in for a penny, in for a pound to continue the black tourism, perhaps a guided trip round Dachau would have been sobering and interesting.

As we were leaving Munich we realised they have a regional train called Bob – we were so tickled we took a photo.

(BOB and BOB)

So Munich, you were a bit wet when we visited, I never realised that this sort of Germany really existed outside of story-books. Your commitment to beer is impressive. But outside of Oktoberfest you are consigned with Frankfurt to my ‘been there, done that’ bin.

The Grand Tour: Episode 1

Snug in my dressing gown, cuddling my cup of hot chocolate the memory of gelato and sunshine seems like a dream. But it happened, a mere 2 weeks ago, I have the photos.

 (Big floppy hat, medicinal ice cream, Venetian skies)

In a mere 10 days we clocked up 1050 land-miles, 1382 air-miles, 3 countries, 5 cities, the Alps, the Adriatic, snow and olives (those last four in just one rail journey).

(my journey as plotted by go-pro travelling)

My father and I flew to Germany and then inter-railed after that. There is something magical about exploring Europe by train, watching the terrain change shape before your very eyes. Our second holiday inter-railing and the last one where I will be cheap (boo hiss!); 2 years ago we travelled from Amsterdam to Poland and back via Hamburg and Berlin, catch up here.

(The Dolce Vita, the first of many railway stations)

On Day 5 of the adventure (points 3-4 on the map) we caught the train to Vienna and I got my first sight of the Alps to John William's soundtrack to 'The Book Thief'. That experience was unforgettable. When we travel together, the journeying is as important as the city we eventually arrive in. 

(Innsbruck, with a mountain at the end of every street)

We used a variety of different accommodation; 2 IBIS hotels, a private hotel, and 2 air b'n'b places. I think our rental of a flat at Campo Mauritz in Venice was my favourite.  Food was a clear priority for us, I always want to 'eat the view' and roughly every 2 hours we'd pause for coffee and a sticky bun of some sort.

(St Maria of Salute Basilica, Venice)

The following posts cover accommodation, sites of interest, what we ate (and where) and some info on transport. I've arranged the info according to location:

Episode 2: Frankfurt

Episode 3: Munich

Episode 4: Vienna

Episode 5: Innsbruck

Episode 6: Venice

Come along for the journey!