Munich: TGT Episode 3

Population: 1.378 million

Highlights: Unironic lederhosen, the Third Reich tour, Sausage at Bratwurst Glöcklein (The Sausage Bell), a rail service named Bob.

Accommodation: Air b’n’b room.

(Milkmaid vogue)

Munich itself epitomises all the stereotypes I used to hold about Germany; lederhosen, milk maid outfits, lots of sausage and pork knuckle delicacies, beer halls and beer –I drank one from a 14^th century brewery) and architecture reminiscent of Christmas toy-towns.

(Lunch at Bratwurst Glöcklein)

Munich has a long association with toys and toy making, so we were excited to see the Toy Museum one gloomy morning, but were a bit disappointed. It wasn’t very big and the displays weren’t that imaginative. But I think I am forever scarred by the teddy skeleton and Barbie in her original butter-milk hue.

(1960's Barbie with bob)

One of the best things we did during our time in Munich was a 3-hour walking tour covering the history of the Third Reich in Munich. That sounds like a strange sentiment, let me explain. Munich was the birthplace of Hitler’s Germany, the site of the Beer Hall Putsch, his failed revolution, and several communist uprisings that would shape the future of the Nazi party. All the events on the GCSE History syllabus (1918-39) were happening in Munich – and unlike in Berlin where history is blatant, you really need a guide to point out the clues. The reality that Munich was the breeding ground for so much hatred is very quietly brushed under the carpet such that this gold stream through the pavement counts as one of the only memorials in the city. I also learned on this tour that Germany was created in France, how contrary.

(Hofbräuhaus München - mid-tour)

(Memorial. Source: Around the world in 5 months)

Had we had better weather or more time we’d both have liked to go to Chiemsee, me for the Benedictine nunnery (founded 782) and Dad for the trains. Also in for a penny, in for a pound to continue the black tourism, perhaps a guided trip round Dachau would have been sobering and interesting.

As we were leaving Munich we realised they have a regional train called Bob – we were so tickled we took a photo.

(BOB and BOB)

So Munich, you were a bit wet when we visited, I never realised that this sort of Germany really existed outside of story-books. Your commitment to beer is impressive. But outside of Oktoberfest you are consigned with Frankfurt to my ‘been there, done that’ bin.

Frankfurt: TGT Episode 2

Population: 691,518

Highlights: Historiches Museum Frankfurt, Botanical Gardens, Iimore Delicatessen.

Accommodation: IBIS hotel.

Our Grand Tour did not begin in grand style. We spent well over an hour queuing to get my bag put in the hold at Heathrow. The saving grace of this disastrous start was the presence of an old uni friend and his travelling Elizabethan bevvy of boys, The Queens Six. All proceeded well after that.

(The Nutcracker(s))

On arrival at Frankfurt airport we decided to make the most of our inter-rail passes from the get-go and travel to the nearby town of Freinsheim. We had heard there was a BING toy museum there; we had not heard there was a rail replacement service for this village, in the middle of the countryside!

Transport aside, we were so pleased to have made the trek. We found ourselves in a walled, Medieval town complete with portcullis. I can’t tell you that much about the museum as I only made it to the ground floor – but my Dad disappeared for a good 2 hours whilst I immersed myself in an After Eight Liqueur Sundae. They’ve really cornered the ideal complement to a museum, with an ice cream parlour.

(After Eight Sundae)

(Freinsheim)

Whilst in Frankfurt we stayed at an IBIS hotel which felt a long way from the town centre and public transport, until we discovered (near the end of our stay) that there was a tram stop right outside the hotel *face-palm. The hotel was clean and tidy, the staff were helpful and doubled-up as cocktail waiters (bonus!), and the breakfast buffet was substantial!

When asking friends about Frankfurt I found people had very few positive things to say about it, that’s sad because actually Frankfurt wasn’t half so bad as had been predicted. It is essentially an urban metropolis with banking at its heart but here are 3 things you shouldn’t miss if you visit:

1. Iimore Delicatessen - just off the main square. Believes coffee and sticky buns are a science. Have a cosy cuppa without it costing the earth.
2. Historiches Museum Frankfurt – they have underground archaeology in situ. You can feel the true weight of a suit of armour, view large scale wooden models of the city and a very impressive mixed-media exhibit about the town’s development. Costs 10E to get in, but easily lose 2-3 hours of your day in there.

(Underground at the Historic Museum)

(How heavy is a suit of armour?)

     3. The Botanical Gardens – our trip round the botanical gardens was time limited by our need to get to Munich, but, if you like exotic looking flowers, cacti, rose gardens and slightly strange fashion exhibits this place is for you!

(Botanical Gardens)

So would I bother going back to Frankfurt as a holiday destination? Probably not, but for 2 days it provided good entertainment and was worth it for our afternoon in Freinsheim, alone.

Next up: Munich.