Summer & Autumn 2020: South West

Now that we often wake ensconced in fog, the balmy days of early September are wrapped in a golden, nostalgic glow. But I did promise that I would give you the third chapter of my tour of the UK.

From North Wales I proceeded to the South West of England; to the shores of the Severn, then on to Dorset and home, via Southampton and the New Forest. 

I spent a week in South Gloucester seeing family. I so enjoyed mooching round Thornbury – shout out to Lions used-book shop, drinking coffee at Hawkes House and meeting the local llama community – yes really! I found plenty of opportunities to walk in South Gloucestershire. Perhaps the most impressive views were found on the day I took a 9km walk in the Malverns to British Camp Hill Fort. British Camp is a scheduled monument that was once an Iron Age hill-fort; you can see for miles around from the monument, making it a very defendable location. The incredible heights don’t come for free; at an elevation of 1,109 ft, I felt this walk in my knees in the following days! But there was at least an ice-cream reward from the kiosk at the end.

The time I spent in Dorset was all too brief. I was based in a chocolate box village, just south of Blandford Forum in a gorgeous B'n'B. Unfortunately I can't link you to the listing as the B'n'B is now permanently closed. Whilst in Dorset I had the opportunity to explore the coast west of Swanage. I walked a circular route along the Jurassic coast, encompassing Dancing Ledge, the picturesque village of Worth Travers and returned along the clifftops along the aptly(-if-prematurely)-named, Priest’s Way. In the village of Worth Travers there is a famous pub called The Square and Compass. One of only nine institutions across the country to have been in every CAMRA beer guide the pub is stolidly traditional, refusing to modernise its interiors for passing fashion. To my surprise they did take cards, but I suspect this is a consequence of COVID. Whilst the drinks offering included a range of different beers and local ciders, this pub is famous for its sole food offering – pie. You can have pie with meat or pie without; those are the options. It was interesting that some tourists really didn’t understand the concept and swiftly dismissed it as being not worth the queuing time because the food offering was so restrictive – no my friends, this is what makes it worth a visit!

My final port of call on the journey back to the South East was to see my sister in Southampton. I don’t remember having been to Southampton before, maybe I have. I didn't spent that much time in Southampton itself, although trying to find a place to brunch before 11 on a weekday was a challenge; but I used it as a base to explore the wider area. We had a lovely afternoon’s walk in the New Forest, communing with the ponies and spotting different types of deer. We also took a drive to Lymington which is a very pretty port-town. The main high street could be accused of being identical with many other high streets, but the marina has plenty small boutiques to visit. There are lots of places to sit in the marina and we did just that, with our ice-creams, watching the ships come in with the day’s catch.

And then, just like that, the tour was done. I returned to the South East and to theological training, to writing my Grandpop’s eulogy, and finding beauty in fog and autumn leaves...of which more soon, I am sure. I am also conscious though that Winter is coming, and by consequence Christmas. I have read several excellent books by women this year which I look forward to reviewing for you, so keep your eyes peeled.

Summer 2020: North Wales and Snowdonia

Hello my friends! As promised here is episode 2 of my Summer adventures. This week I give you, North Wales and Snowdonia.

(Self-portrait beside Lake Bala)

Snowdonia

For my fortnight in Wales I was based at the incredible, Plas Penaeldroch in the heart of Snowdonia. Mike and Carrie are excellent hosts and the house manages both to feel enveloped in nature, and be a mere 10 minute drive south-west of Betws-y-Coed. Snowdonia National Park is full of beauty, especially in late August when I visited. There are walks suitable to every grade of walker, from the valley rambler to the serious climber. I used this book for a lot of my walks in the National Park and found my comfort zone was in the 'moderate' level walks, I left the 'hard' paths to the more adventurous! 

(Plas Penaeldroch)

In addition to hill-walking in Snowdonia I also really enjoyed some gentler rambles including around Llyn Tegid. This is Wales' largest natural lake, there are lots of watersports available on the lake, and I spent a lot of time thinking about Mary Jones. Mary walked 26 miles to a church on the banks of this lake just to buy a bible in Welsh! The other bonus of valley walks, such as that between The Ugly House and Betws, is the proliferation of coffee shops at either end. Coffee and cake is never far away, even at the base of the slightly more ambitious walk about Llyn Idwal. 

(Cwm Idwal)

A note on transport: It is possible to do Snowdonia by public transport but when I was there the buses were not running to timetable and there were significant delays (of upwards of 1 hour!). Whilst the towns and famous walking routes were quite busy it was always possible to find a quiet route and free places to park if you go 500m beyond the tourist hotspots. If you are visiting the parks in peak season do arrive early (before 9am) as they quickly fill up. Do also be aware that Snowdonia is famous for its hills, the roads can be narrow and steep.

(Gorgeous Snowdonia) 

Anglesey

I know plenty of family and friends who really rate Anglesey but I had never visited until this Summer. When it was raining in Snowdonia you could almost bet that it would be sunny on the island so I made a couple of trips across the Menai Strait. I was guided by my walking book to both Puffin Island and Newborough Beach. As with Snowdonia it pays to arrive early - getting out of Newborough by 11.30am was really challenging. Saying this, the sights are worth it in both cases. Sandy shores, glimmering water, and the mountains in the distance. These landscapes are steeped in peace and also offer plenty of historic interest. Although I only made a couple of trips to the island, I would like to return to explore it properly.

(Puffin Island)

  (The mainland from Puffin Island)

(Newborough)

Northern towns and their castles

Following the prompting of my walking book I explored a number of towns on the coast and their attendant castles. Here I will touch on just three: Caernarfon, Harlech and Portmeirion. 

An afternoon with the royal town of Caernarfon pairs well with a trip to Anglesey on the basis of location. They have a very nice thirteenth-century castle there, and you can pretend you are at the investiture of the Prince of Wales whilst you are there. When I visited there was a lot of construction work happening within the grounds of the castle which, in addition to COVID restrictions did limit the experience a bit but I'd still say it was a nice way to spend an hour or so. The rest of Caernarfon seemed dwarfed by the castle and I didn't find that much more to do there. 

                (Caernarfon Castle)                      

The same could not be said for Harlech. I don't think I would even have considered visiting Harlech without the walking book but I am so glad I did. This location does come with the warning that one of its roads was in the Guiness Book of Records for being the steepest road in the world! But Harlech has plenty to recommend it including but not limited to: castle, golfing range, incredible sand dunes, and WILDERNESS, which houses both a cafe and a wool shop - this is close to perfection for me! Needless to say I emerged from the shop with both cheese on toast and a couple of balls of wall. If cheese on toast isn't your thing Harlech has lots of coffee shops to find your fix. I concluded my visit to Harlech by doing a 7 mile walking route which took in the town, surrounding fields (I got so lost!), and a final stroll along the bay. Its a strong recommend from me.

(Harlech, really very steep, and very beautiful)

And finally, Portmeirion. I had a vague recollection that Portmeirion was famous for making pottery but I had no idea about the resort. Portmeirion was designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis over a 50 year period in the twentieth century and is inspired by villages in the Mediterranean. It is a slightly surreal experience where you know you are in Wales but the architecture doesn't match the context. I have never been to Disneyland, but I suspect its a bit like Disneyland. I had a perfectly nice morning in Portmeirion, but felt I had 'done it all' over 2 hours or so. 

(Portmeirion)

Well, that my friends was my experience of North Wales, honourable mentions to the towns of Bangor (perfectly pleasant but a bit beige), Porthmadog (nice indy ceramic shop!) and Towyn (so, so damp when I visited). Next time: The South West; Gloucestershire, Dorset and the New Forest. 

Summer 2020: County Durham and the North East

Well my friends, like most of you 2020 has not turned out like I planned. I did have quite an adventurous year plan encompassing Israel and Palestine and Vancouver. But then well 'the-changer-of-all-our-plans' broke in and turned everything upside down. Whilst travel abroad hasn't been possible for me this year I was determined to get in some adventures. So here is the first of my posts on travel in the UK 2020. Beginning with 7 weeks in County Durham and the surrounding areas.

Durham herself

Lending her name to the entire county, first up is Durham herself. I visited the city centre at least weekly during my 7 weeks in the North East and she has a lot to recommend her; but oh my goodness is she confusing to the unfamiliar driver! This was particularly the case when I visited as there have been a number of changes made to the local road network that Google hadn't caught up with yet. If you're going to travel by car I'd recommend the Prince Bishops car park, its a bit more expensive than the others but the directions to it are clear and you don't have to keep track of paper tickets etc. 

So, car rant over. What is there to do? Well, the cathedral is gorgeous and free to enter- you can still visit St Cuthbert's shrine and explore the nave, but NB the cafe and toilets remain closed. The covered market has also reopened with its full range of wares from watch straps to candles, fabrics to coffee. 

There are also a range of cafes to eat in. I particularly enjoyed my time at The Coffee House Durham and Leonard's. Cracking aero milkshake at the former, and fantastic sweet treats at the latter. 

Bamburgh

If you have the time and a sunny day I would heartily recommend a trip up the coastal road to Bamburgh. This small coastal town plays host to Bamburgh Castle - the inspiration for Cornwall's book (and now TV series), The Last Kingdom. The castle site has been occupied since ancient times, and you can see why when surveying the coast from the battlements. Having spent an enjoyable hour or two in the castle grounds you can make a day of it by, walking along the sand dunes, stopping for lunch in one of the many eateries along the high street, and paying a trip to St Aidan's church. St Aidan's is a 12th century church with a number of interesting features including the tomb of the unknown soldier. Unfortunately, the crypt - which contains the remains of 110 people from the 7th/8th centuries, was closed due to COVID. The coastal road to Bamburgh is a pleasure in and of itself, but if you happen to be heading that way from Durham I would also recommend a pause at Barter books or The Treehouse restaurant (sadly currently closed due to COVID), both in Alnwick.

Hartlepool, and Sunderland

I have snuck these two cities in amongst all the luxurious countryside and coastline because I feel they are much maligned in public culture. There are two faces to Hartlepool, and one of them is gorgeous - lots of Victorian architecture and the stunning exterior of Christ Church, built in 1854 but sadly now an art gallery. If you continue past the church to the marina you will spy a number of pretty boats and the majestic Royal Naval Museum. The museum was sadly closed at the time I visited but looked as if it would be a good experience. Hartlepool also has a drive-through Nandos. Need I say more.

Sunderland similarly has been unfairly dismissed as an ugly city. It is industrial and there is little to redeem the city centre, although have another look at The Elephant Tea Rooms as you go past. Beyond the city centre though there are some pretty spaces. Mowbray Park Gardens, for example, was created in the 1830's and won best park in Britain in 2008. Its a lovely place to spend some time. And the surrounding heritage areas make for a nice walk. 

Seaham and the Coast

Being in County Durham means proximity to a glorious coast line. There are beaches for every audience in County Durham. Roker has a beachside pub, Seaham has a sandy strand, but there are also several miles of quieter coastline. I really enjoyed an afternoon at Limekiln beach, and got quite lost exploring the coast at Hawthorne Dean. Seaham is a mere 15 miles from Durham city centre and has a Saxon church (sadly closed when I visited), many icecream parlours and a slightly strange WWI memorial. Seaham has several nice beaches and lots of free parking, its a strong recommend from me.

North Pennines and nature walks

Let's say for some inexplicable reason you are tired of County Durham's coast, what now? Well County Durham won't disappoint as there is plenty of natural beauty inland too. I did not visit Barnard castle (ahem!) but I did go to the North Pennines AONB and found it to be worthy of the name. As with the likes of Seaham there is lots of free parking in the area. There are walks to suit all types of walker. I did a little circular route of 7 miles, encountering cattle and horses, a river and the hill top. It was an enjoyable time but particularly facilitated by an afternoon tea in the nearby village of Quebec. 

So, that was County Durham and the North East - I found plenty to keep me busy in the seven weeks I was there. You would probably find more if you visit at a time the country is not plagued by pandemic. In my next instalment I'll tell you all about my fortnight in North Wales.

City: Almería

If history makes your heart happy you must visit Almería; regardless of when your favourite period is, this city has something for you. If you don't like history there's plenty to amuse too, beaches, bars, museums but being a bit of a history-nut this post features on places of historical interest.

Alcazaba and Arab baths
In the 10th century Almería was a thriving port city under the Caliph of Cordoba, Abd ar-Rahman III. They developed the relevant infrastructure to go with this and you can visit  - the old Arab cisterns have anachronistically been opened as a museum of traditional Spanish culture. If you want to experience Arab baths a hotel on the old market square has opened an arab-bath experience on the site of a historic bath. At 25E for 2 hours it is good value - you get to use all the facilities, including the flotation tank which was a personal favourite of mine and you can drink as much mint tea as you like!

The Alcazaba or castle also arrived in the 10th century, the distinctive ramparts still dominate the city's skyline although you will have to walk slightly beyond the modern city centre and climb a hill to get there. If you can climb all the steps before it closes the castle and its gardens are free to enter and offer great views of the surrounding city and coastline - aspects that were no doubt fundamental to its original creation.

(Alcazaba ramparts)

(Alcazaba gardens)

Cathedral
It would be easy to confuse this 16th century building with a castle, as it is so well fortified, but it is in fact a cathedral. You do have to pay to get in but it wasn't expensive, maybe 5E, and an audio-tour in English was included in the ticket price. It was quite ornate and pretty inside, a nice place to spend an hour or two but its not a 'day-visit' location.

(Cathedral)

Refugios de Almería
If you like your history a little more contemporary you can take a subterranean trip through the underground bunkers used by the residents of Almería during the Civil war. This was a really great way to spend an 1hr and a half or so and was not expensive. 3E for a video subtitled in English and then a guided tour in Spanish - with brief summaries given in English too - is really good value. Although it is essentially a series of concrete tunnels they have done a good job of bringing people's stories to life and I particularly enjoyed the underground hospital reconstruction.

(Refugio tour)

(Hospital in the bunker)

The Museum of Almería 
This is hands-down the best free museum I have ever been too; that is quite a claim as I have been to many museums, but its true. The museum covers the region's history spanning from Los Millares to the present day with a focus on the early history of the region. What was particularly striking about this museum was the way they fused audio visual with artistic installations by local artists and genuine artefacts, the integrity of presenting real objects wasn't compromised by experience but enhanced by it. I was particularly impressed with a map of the Los Millares site - you could see the geographical layout of the site but you could also learn about their attitude towards the economy and spirituality, for example, through symbolic objects such as beads, shells.

(Los Millares map with symbols)

With Morocco visible across the water, Almería as a town and as a wider region exists in this liminal space - with a foot in each camp of Europe and Africa - but definitely no-one's pet! Almería owns its ancient heritage; continuing ancient practical practices like building houses into the rocks and cave structures; since the Chalcolithic they have been artisans, creating copper from raw ingredients, firing pots in ingenious fashion whilst looking after the landscape around them.

Luckily for me Almería has been off the tourist track for a long time - as successive governments have ignored it and refused to invest in the area - this has caused real problems financially for the area and is part of the reason why we have the unsightly 'plastics' today, but is also the reason for incredible scenery and for that I am grateful.

Country: Sierra Alhamilla & Tabernas Desert

When I booked my holiday to the Cabo de Gata I had a number of choices about where to stay; the city of Almería - urban, well connected, beaches possible; the coast - bit difficult to get to, bit remote if don't like; the mountains - friendly host, oceans of history, bit remote but close to many interesting things; reader I chose the mountains.

In my initial post I told you a little bit about the village where I stayed, Níjar. This time I'd love to share some of the gems north of the village. Níjar is an old village on the edge of an ancient valley. When the Arabs had control of the region they built an incredible water management system which allowed them to live long-term in the area. The water system is still extant today; more on this later.

One day we took a drive up into the mountains of the Sierra Alhamilla. It is not a drive for the faint hearted; the roads are narrow and full of pot-holes, but you will be well rewarded for leaving the well-trodden path. Within 20 minutes of leaving Níjar we reached this abandoned house; well warned about the snakes I was free to explore the house and its neighbouring threshing-floor where people threshed the wheat over 1000 years. As we continued through the Alhamilla we saw so many plants and animals and I could tell why they felt so happy there as it was so tranquil. Man has clearly made his mark in the Alhamilla; there are plenty of hunting lodges and a couple of satellite stations but in a broadly unobtrusive and respectful way to the landscape.

(Abandoned house)

(Threshing floor)

The famous exception to this is the city of Los Millares, a Chalcolithic settlement and the home of the Bronze Age; it is at Los Millares that they worked out the metallurgy for bronze. As we crossed the Tabernas desert to this famous archaeological site it was awe inspiring to think that we were likely driving the same route as these early pioneers. When we got to the site they had just closed for the day which was a shame but we got to see it and the drive over was truly sensational. The Tabernas Desert is the largest desert in Europe and as such was a cheap location for filming Westerns in the 20th century. I think you can see why!

(Into the Tabernas Desert)

(Tabernas)

Now, I did say I'd tell you more about these water systems. I got up-close and personal with them on one Saturday afternoon when it was suggested I go on a little walk up to the next village, Huebro, for a swim in the reservoir. Heartened by the promise it would only take an hour and the route marked 'facil' I set off. The first 20 minutes or so following the painted signs was easy, but then the markers disappeared. I had to guess the route. At first this was quite fun, I felt like Indiana Jones having slid down into the valley floor, climbing through the undergrowth. But it soon became apparent to me that this was not the route. I was stuck by this stage, surrounded by trees and shrubs, wondering what other animals were sat with me looking at a wall of rock and alluvial sand 3 metres high. How was I going to get out? I had no phone signal and there was no-one around because it was siesta time. I started to really regret being there the decision of a little afternoon walk. It took me three attempts to climb out of this tight spot, every time I stopped to review my progress up the wall if my foot was on compacted sand and not rock I slid back down and had to start again! When I eventually got to the top of the wall, I rolled through brambles to get out - my legs and arms were bruised and scratched but miraculously I was otherwise OK. I carried on my walk to Huebro in a state of shock, and awe at the archaeology. Huebro itself was nice enough, I drank two fanta lemons, ate a sandwich, did not swim in the reservoir as it was more algae than water by the afternoon, and then set off home again. Like the Wise Men I returned via another route...

(Maximising irrigation for agriculture)

(Industrial archaeology)

So the countryside of the Alhamilla and Tabernas - not to be underestimated, but stunning; best viewed in a car that can off-road, although I hear the caving and official(!) climbing opportunities are also good fun.

(Walking away from Huebro)

Coast: Cabo de Gata

It was a drizzly afternoon in April, Manchester UK and I was dreaming of sitting on a beach in the sunshine. I was not looking for a coastal resort, what I had in mind was more like the start of Prince Caspian, but without the flight to New Zealand. The Cabo de Gata has this in bucket-loads. I only spent two afternoons at the seaside but I enjoyed both dips in the Alborean sea.

(The set for Prince Caspian, filmed in New Zealand)

The first day my host drove us from Níjar to San Miguel which took the best part of an hour. The drive took us through the rather unsightly, but highly productive 'plastics' in the region which produce all sorts of vegetables including a black tomato. Emerging from the plastics, we saw the protected salt-marshes and their flamingos which weren't looking particularly pink but they did look happy.

(San Miguel)

As it was a public holiday we weren't really sure if anywhere would be open but we headed for the Torreón de San Miguel and found a little chiringuito (tapas bar) at the beach. There is such a delight in the directness of eating fresh seafood beside the same sea it was fished from. The beach was quite busy at San Miguel but I enjoyed watching people going about their Bank Holiday activities. One of group of young men were going on a fishing trip with their dad. The fishing boat was rolled down to the sea on wooden logs, in Viking-style, don't fix what ain't broke I suppose!

On my second trip to the seaside we went in the opposite direction to Agua Amarga. A small diversion from the route took us to see this olive tree; it was producing olives in 1066 and still produces olives today. It felt almost holy to be in the presence of a tree that has seen so much and still stands fruitful - I think there's a sermon in there! In classic Spanish style there is little ceremony made about this tree just a little plaque.

(The ancient olive tree)

Agua Amarga means Bitter Water and there is a local joke that its not just the water that's bitter...I found it was a perfectly nice beach to spend an hour or two, I felt very safe, the water was clear but there were British tourists everywhere.

(Agua Amarga) 

When I first booked a trip to the Cabo I was thinking of rustic unspoiled coves, where you felt completely alone, where you'd spend the day reading, swimming, napping and eating sandy sandwiches. I believe this is still possible at the Cabo de Gata; but I think you really do need your own transport. I was reliant on my kind and accommodating host but was limited by the time he was willing to spend. Without him I'd have been reliant on buses which do go to and fro from the city of Almería but not via the villages and even then only a couple of times a day. As with several elements of this trip on balance a hire car would have been a good idea; but I still enjoyed the coast.

Adventure, Anxiety and Andalucia : all begin with A

Last Autumn I was looking for a little Autumn sun; so I googled unspoiled beaches and decided to  take one of my biggest adventures yet - exploring the Cabo de Gata coast, the Sierra Alhamilla and Tabernas Desert in a mere 6 days.

(Cabo de Gata coast)

(Driving across the Sierra Alhamilla)

It was a big adventure for me because I was going somewhere rural - although you might not have guessed this from the package holiday airlines that served Almería - I was on my own, and going to a place in the shadow of a volcano. My base for the week was the village of Níjar - a historic hill village with early medieval water systems, Moorish watch towers, and distant views of the coastline, the house I stayed in built into caves that people have lived in since the Neolithic!

(Ancient landscaping)

The village is culturally renowned for rag-rugs and special pottery. The high street shopping model has not changed much since the medieval period - artists have their shop in the 'living room' area at the front of the house, and then they live behind and above the shop. I was visiting one of these potters, drinking coffee and chatting away when we came to talking about anxiety and stress. She said I was very brave to travel on my own, that she is too anxious to travel. I get anxious and worried about a lot of things but I don't let it stop me travelling; I said, 'if I can get anxious just sat at home I'd rather see the world and have something real to worry about'.

(Unique ceramic from Níjar)

These are famous last words because my week exploring the Almería region was quite eventful and I did have plenty of real worries to contend with whilst exploring this area of incredible beauty. This short series of blog posts will explore the coast, the country and the city in the Almería region.