Summer 2020: North Wales and Snowdonia

Hello my friends! As promised here is episode 2 of my Summer adventures. This week I give you, North Wales and Snowdonia.

(Self-portrait beside Lake Bala)

Snowdonia

For my fortnight in Wales I was based at the incredible, Plas Penaeldroch in the heart of Snowdonia. Mike and Carrie are excellent hosts and the house manages both to feel enveloped in nature, and be a mere 10 minute drive south-west of Betws-y-Coed. Snowdonia National Park is full of beauty, especially in late August when I visited. There are walks suitable to every grade of walker, from the valley rambler to the serious climber. I used this book for a lot of my walks in the National Park and found my comfort zone was in the 'moderate' level walks, I left the 'hard' paths to the more adventurous! 

(Plas Penaeldroch)

In addition to hill-walking in Snowdonia I also really enjoyed some gentler rambles including around Llyn Tegid. This is Wales' largest natural lake, there are lots of watersports available on the lake, and I spent a lot of time thinking about Mary Jones. Mary walked 26 miles to a church on the banks of this lake just to buy a bible in Welsh! The other bonus of valley walks, such as that between The Ugly House and Betws, is the proliferation of coffee shops at either end. Coffee and cake is never far away, even at the base of the slightly more ambitious walk about Llyn Idwal. 

(Cwm Idwal)

A note on transport: It is possible to do Snowdonia by public transport but when I was there the buses were not running to timetable and there were significant delays (of upwards of 1 hour!). Whilst the towns and famous walking routes were quite busy it was always possible to find a quiet route and free places to park if you go 500m beyond the tourist hotspots. If you are visiting the parks in peak season do arrive early (before 9am) as they quickly fill up. Do also be aware that Snowdonia is famous for its hills, the roads can be narrow and steep.

(Gorgeous Snowdonia) 

Anglesey

I know plenty of family and friends who really rate Anglesey but I had never visited until this Summer. When it was raining in Snowdonia you could almost bet that it would be sunny on the island so I made a couple of trips across the Menai Strait. I was guided by my walking book to both Puffin Island and Newborough Beach. As with Snowdonia it pays to arrive early - getting out of Newborough by 11.30am was really challenging. Saying this, the sights are worth it in both cases. Sandy shores, glimmering water, and the mountains in the distance. These landscapes are steeped in peace and also offer plenty of historic interest. Although I only made a couple of trips to the island, I would like to return to explore it properly.

(Puffin Island)

  (The mainland from Puffin Island)

(Newborough)

Northern towns and their castles

Following the prompting of my walking book I explored a number of towns on the coast and their attendant castles. Here I will touch on just three: Caernarfon, Harlech and Portmeirion. 

An afternoon with the royal town of Caernarfon pairs well with a trip to Anglesey on the basis of location. They have a very nice thirteenth-century castle there, and you can pretend you are at the investiture of the Prince of Wales whilst you are there. When I visited there was a lot of construction work happening within the grounds of the castle which, in addition to COVID restrictions did limit the experience a bit but I'd still say it was a nice way to spend an hour or so. The rest of Caernarfon seemed dwarfed by the castle and I didn't find that much more to do there. 

                (Caernarfon Castle)                      

The same could not be said for Harlech. I don't think I would even have considered visiting Harlech without the walking book but I am so glad I did. This location does come with the warning that one of its roads was in the Guiness Book of Records for being the steepest road in the world! But Harlech has plenty to recommend it including but not limited to: castle, golfing range, incredible sand dunes, and WILDERNESS, which houses both a cafe and a wool shop - this is close to perfection for me! Needless to say I emerged from the shop with both cheese on toast and a couple of balls of wall. If cheese on toast isn't your thing Harlech has lots of coffee shops to find your fix. I concluded my visit to Harlech by doing a 7 mile walking route which took in the town, surrounding fields (I got so lost!), and a final stroll along the bay. Its a strong recommend from me.

(Harlech, really very steep, and very beautiful)

And finally, Portmeirion. I had a vague recollection that Portmeirion was famous for making pottery but I had no idea about the resort. Portmeirion was designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis over a 50 year period in the twentieth century and is inspired by villages in the Mediterranean. It is a slightly surreal experience where you know you are in Wales but the architecture doesn't match the context. I have never been to Disneyland, but I suspect its a bit like Disneyland. I had a perfectly nice morning in Portmeirion, but felt I had 'done it all' over 2 hours or so. 

(Portmeirion)

Well, that my friends was my experience of North Wales, honourable mentions to the towns of Bangor (perfectly pleasant but a bit beige), Porthmadog (nice indy ceramic shop!) and Towyn (so, so damp when I visited). Next time: The South West; Gloucestershire, Dorset and the New Forest. 

Summer 2020: County Durham and the North East

Well my friends, like most of you 2020 has not turned out like I planned. I did have quite an adventurous year plan encompassing Israel and Palestine and Vancouver. But then well 'the-changer-of-all-our-plans' broke in and turned everything upside down. Whilst travel abroad hasn't been possible for me this year I was determined to get in some adventures. So here is the first of my posts on travel in the UK 2020. Beginning with 7 weeks in County Durham and the surrounding areas.

Durham herself

Lending her name to the entire county, first up is Durham herself. I visited the city centre at least weekly during my 7 weeks in the North East and she has a lot to recommend her; but oh my goodness is she confusing to the unfamiliar driver! This was particularly the case when I visited as there have been a number of changes made to the local road network that Google hadn't caught up with yet. If you're going to travel by car I'd recommend the Prince Bishops car park, its a bit more expensive than the others but the directions to it are clear and you don't have to keep track of paper tickets etc. 

So, car rant over. What is there to do? Well, the cathedral is gorgeous and free to enter- you can still visit St Cuthbert's shrine and explore the nave, but NB the cafe and toilets remain closed. The covered market has also reopened with its full range of wares from watch straps to candles, fabrics to coffee. 

There are also a range of cafes to eat in. I particularly enjoyed my time at The Coffee House Durham and Leonard's. Cracking aero milkshake at the former, and fantastic sweet treats at the latter. 

Bamburgh

If you have the time and a sunny day I would heartily recommend a trip up the coastal road to Bamburgh. This small coastal town plays host to Bamburgh Castle - the inspiration for Cornwall's book (and now TV series), The Last Kingdom. The castle site has been occupied since ancient times, and you can see why when surveying the coast from the battlements. Having spent an enjoyable hour or two in the castle grounds you can make a day of it by, walking along the sand dunes, stopping for lunch in one of the many eateries along the high street, and paying a trip to St Aidan's church. St Aidan's is a 12th century church with a number of interesting features including the tomb of the unknown soldier. Unfortunately, the crypt - which contains the remains of 110 people from the 7th/8th centuries, was closed due to COVID. The coastal road to Bamburgh is a pleasure in and of itself, but if you happen to be heading that way from Durham I would also recommend a pause at Barter books or The Treehouse restaurant (sadly currently closed due to COVID), both in Alnwick.

Hartlepool, and Sunderland

I have snuck these two cities in amongst all the luxurious countryside and coastline because I feel they are much maligned in public culture. There are two faces to Hartlepool, and one of them is gorgeous - lots of Victorian architecture and the stunning exterior of Christ Church, built in 1854 but sadly now an art gallery. If you continue past the church to the marina you will spy a number of pretty boats and the majestic Royal Naval Museum. The museum was sadly closed at the time I visited but looked as if it would be a good experience. Hartlepool also has a drive-through Nandos. Need I say more.

Sunderland similarly has been unfairly dismissed as an ugly city. It is industrial and there is little to redeem the city centre, although have another look at The Elephant Tea Rooms as you go past. Beyond the city centre though there are some pretty spaces. Mowbray Park Gardens, for example, was created in the 1830's and won best park in Britain in 2008. Its a lovely place to spend some time. And the surrounding heritage areas make for a nice walk. 

Seaham and the Coast

Being in County Durham means proximity to a glorious coast line. There are beaches for every audience in County Durham. Roker has a beachside pub, Seaham has a sandy strand, but there are also several miles of quieter coastline. I really enjoyed an afternoon at Limekiln beach, and got quite lost exploring the coast at Hawthorne Dean. Seaham is a mere 15 miles from Durham city centre and has a Saxon church (sadly closed when I visited), many icecream parlours and a slightly strange WWI memorial. Seaham has several nice beaches and lots of free parking, its a strong recommend from me.

North Pennines and nature walks

Let's say for some inexplicable reason you are tired of County Durham's coast, what now? Well County Durham won't disappoint as there is plenty of natural beauty inland too. I did not visit Barnard castle (ahem!) but I did go to the North Pennines AONB and found it to be worthy of the name. As with the likes of Seaham there is lots of free parking in the area. There are walks to suit all types of walker. I did a little circular route of 7 miles, encountering cattle and horses, a river and the hill top. It was an enjoyable time but particularly facilitated by an afternoon tea in the nearby village of Quebec. 

So, that was County Durham and the North East - I found plenty to keep me busy in the seven weeks I was there. You would probably find more if you visit at a time the country is not plagued by pandemic. In my next instalment I'll tell you all about my fortnight in North Wales.

Coast: Cabo de Gata

It was a drizzly afternoon in April, Manchester UK and I was dreaming of sitting on a beach in the sunshine. I was not looking for a coastal resort, what I had in mind was more like the start of Prince Caspian, but without the flight to New Zealand. The Cabo de Gata has this in bucket-loads. I only spent two afternoons at the seaside but I enjoyed both dips in the Alborean sea.

(The set for Prince Caspian, filmed in New Zealand)

The first day my host drove us from Níjar to San Miguel which took the best part of an hour. The drive took us through the rather unsightly, but highly productive 'plastics' in the region which produce all sorts of vegetables including a black tomato. Emerging from the plastics, we saw the protected salt-marshes and their flamingos which weren't looking particularly pink but they did look happy.

(San Miguel)

As it was a public holiday we weren't really sure if anywhere would be open but we headed for the Torreón de San Miguel and found a little chiringuito (tapas bar) at the beach. There is such a delight in the directness of eating fresh seafood beside the same sea it was fished from. The beach was quite busy at San Miguel but I enjoyed watching people going about their Bank Holiday activities. One of group of young men were going on a fishing trip with their dad. The fishing boat was rolled down to the sea on wooden logs, in Viking-style, don't fix what ain't broke I suppose!

On my second trip to the seaside we went in the opposite direction to Agua Amarga. A small diversion from the route took us to see this olive tree; it was producing olives in 1066 and still produces olives today. It felt almost holy to be in the presence of a tree that has seen so much and still stands fruitful - I think there's a sermon in there! In classic Spanish style there is little ceremony made about this tree just a little plaque.

(The ancient olive tree)

Agua Amarga means Bitter Water and there is a local joke that its not just the water that's bitter...I found it was a perfectly nice beach to spend an hour or two, I felt very safe, the water was clear but there were British tourists everywhere.

(Agua Amarga) 

When I first booked a trip to the Cabo I was thinking of rustic unspoiled coves, where you felt completely alone, where you'd spend the day reading, swimming, napping and eating sandy sandwiches. I believe this is still possible at the Cabo de Gata; but I think you really do need your own transport. I was reliant on my kind and accommodating host but was limited by the time he was willing to spend. Without him I'd have been reliant on buses which do go to and fro from the city of Almería but not via the villages and even then only a couple of times a day. As with several elements of this trip on balance a hire car would have been a good idea; but I still enjoyed the coast.

Mallorca: croissants, cathedrals and sunshine

Its Autumn so its obviously time for another trip for some Spanish sun. I left my house at 5am to spend some time in my favourite sunny place, Mallorca.

I made the most of the fact my host was busy in the day to do lots of touristing. I visit the Museum of Mallorca and pondered why Santa Lucia held a box with eyes in and why John the Baptist looked like a rasta. Next up on this cultural tour is the Arab Baths - there's not much to actually see here; but there are some nice gardens to soak up some vitamin D.

Garden at the Arab Baths

I found some lunch and 'ate the view' it always amazes me how beautiful even the water bottles are here. Whilst wondering around after lunch I fell into a bookshop. This is a frequent threat to my productivity but being on holiday I did not hold up much resistance. The English Bookshop in Palma is a truly unique experience; run by an eccentric Englishman who will offer you a side of conspiracy theory with your sale. He seems to actually live amongst the three floors of bookshop encased in an old fashioned house if the bathroom and hand-drawn nudes in the basement beside Russian history are anything to go by. I bought two leather bound books, Vanity Fair and some old stories about Cambridgeshire.

This time my trip was punctuated by lighthouses and pastry-stops. I was introduced to Lluis Perez' phenomenal pastries and we had the conversation yet again about carob and whether it made a more suitable horse treat than warm mash, apples or sugar lumps. On the light-house front we took trips to the north to Pollencia and Cap de Formentor via the Arab Medieval walled-town of Alcudia. And a hike to Cap de Cala Figuera in the south. Both picturesque in their own ways.

Cap de Formentor

Cap de Cala Figuera

I visited Palma Cathedral for the first time this year. The treasury was of some interest and the main cathedral was a peaceful space. I enjoyed the way the light played upon the organ.

This year was also a first for independent bus travel. I am amazed at how technology has improved such that in a foreign land you can board a bus and get where you want to go - if you pronounce it right - and all along you can see your exact location. I traveled from the airport by bus and also to and from the aquarium and felt very accomplished.

Finally, I know you're dying to know, yes I did have my annual ice cream - this time in November and tasted so good - the weather was unseasonably mild even for Mallorca. I also enjoyed a lazy afternoon at the beach once I had explained to the beach combing massage lady that no, I didn't want her to touch me and no, I didn't want a massage! Talk about a miscommunication!

Ice cream

Reading at the beach

Needless to say I hope to return and discover even more of this beautiful island.

Aarhus: the Danish concluding chapter

And so Easter Monday morning dawned and I left behind a sun-drenched weekend full of Vikings, fine wines and country walks. I was headed for for Aarhus which was wet and shut. It felt like the whole town was closed, except for the bars and coffee shops (expensive ones - £5 per coffee!) but once I boarded the right bus, on my 3rd attempt, things started to look up - I arrived at M and V's house.

In defence of couchsurfing

As I am sure you are all aware by now, I love couchsurfing. Most people are attracted to its being FREE but the benefits extend beyond the lack of a bill. I arrived at the house and immediately made two friends; we talked of  linguistics, education and culture in our 3 native lands as well as in Denmark, which was native to none of us. I had been yearning for company, and these guys were rapidly becoming my favourites.

Aarhus: Vikings and old stuff.

Aarhus is another of Bluetooth's towns with a rampart round it. I was up early to see the best of it, the rain had cleared and the shops opened. Unfortunately Aarhus' famous Viking exhibition was shut; but there is amazing Viking treasure if you know where to look. The free Vikingemuseet, Aarhus is hidden beneath a bank on the high street. Descending stairs so as to to be at 'Viking level', the museum catalogues Viking Aarhus and particularly the shops along the wharf that occupied that very space. Think reconstructed Viking houses, a clinker walkway and artefacts displayed in cases in the very space they were discovered. The exhibition is amazing quality for an unsupervised free museum in a bank basement!

 (Vikingemuseet, Aarhus. Image: author's own)

Aarhus Cathedral is breathtaking. Its a 13th century cathedral, said to be the longest and tallest in Denmark, and filled with gorgeous relics. The cathedral is covered in anchors, the symbol of St Clemens the patron saint, and these amazing comic strips. From a young age I was aware the illiteracy of the faithful led to a need for images in churches; but I always imagined these to be wall-murals rather than comic strips with speech bubbles as you see in the image below.

(Aarhus Cathedral comic strip. Image: author's own)

Aarhus: A harbour, palace, Bambi and sunset

Another benefit of couchsurfing is that where hosts are able they often become the most excellent tour guides. My host V was no exception. We met for lunch at Mikuna a new organic, vegan restaurant and I had sensational chilli. Hosts take you places you would never think to go without the knowledge of what is possible. V took me out south of Aarhus  to the harbour, Queen's Palace and an amazing deer park.

(Aarhus harbour. Photo: author's own)

(Chasing deer. Image: author's own)

 It was a sunny afternoon spent chasing deer and imagining I owned a yacht with the great pleasure of company; nothing beats having a companion, not least to take photos of you on your travels! Thoroughly bonded through our shared sunny afternoon we returned to the flat via a sushi bar which did tasty take away. Anxious to make the most of the trip I took up V's offer to visit the seaside after dinner. Although the sun had near enough set by the time we arrived, the beach was still wired with atmosphere. The roar of the sea, the shoreline peeling back to reveal endless sea, jetties ending in ocean, with no boats visible - the seashore at Akrogen seemed a fitting end to my Viking adventure.

(Akrogen Beach. Image: author's own)