Summer 2020: County Durham and the North East

Well my friends, like most of you 2020 has not turned out like I planned. I did have quite an adventurous year plan encompassing Israel and Palestine and Vancouver. But then well 'the-changer-of-all-our-plans' broke in and turned everything upside down. Whilst travel abroad hasn't been possible for me this year I was determined to get in some adventures. So here is the first of my posts on travel in the UK 2020. Beginning with 7 weeks in County Durham and the surrounding areas.

Durham herself

Lending her name to the entire county, first up is Durham herself. I visited the city centre at least weekly during my 7 weeks in the North East and she has a lot to recommend her; but oh my goodness is she confusing to the unfamiliar driver! This was particularly the case when I visited as there have been a number of changes made to the local road network that Google hadn't caught up with yet. If you're going to travel by car I'd recommend the Prince Bishops car park, its a bit more expensive than the others but the directions to it are clear and you don't have to keep track of paper tickets etc. 

So, car rant over. What is there to do? Well, the cathedral is gorgeous and free to enter- you can still visit St Cuthbert's shrine and explore the nave, but NB the cafe and toilets remain closed. The covered market has also reopened with its full range of wares from watch straps to candles, fabrics to coffee. 

There are also a range of cafes to eat in. I particularly enjoyed my time at The Coffee House Durham and Leonard's. Cracking aero milkshake at the former, and fantastic sweet treats at the latter. 

Bamburgh

If you have the time and a sunny day I would heartily recommend a trip up the coastal road to Bamburgh. This small coastal town plays host to Bamburgh Castle - the inspiration for Cornwall's book (and now TV series), The Last Kingdom. The castle site has been occupied since ancient times, and you can see why when surveying the coast from the battlements. Having spent an enjoyable hour or two in the castle grounds you can make a day of it by, walking along the sand dunes, stopping for lunch in one of the many eateries along the high street, and paying a trip to St Aidan's church. St Aidan's is a 12th century church with a number of interesting features including the tomb of the unknown soldier. Unfortunately, the crypt - which contains the remains of 110 people from the 7th/8th centuries, was closed due to COVID. The coastal road to Bamburgh is a pleasure in and of itself, but if you happen to be heading that way from Durham I would also recommend a pause at Barter books or The Treehouse restaurant (sadly currently closed due to COVID), both in Alnwick.

Hartlepool, and Sunderland

I have snuck these two cities in amongst all the luxurious countryside and coastline because I feel they are much maligned in public culture. There are two faces to Hartlepool, and one of them is gorgeous - lots of Victorian architecture and the stunning exterior of Christ Church, built in 1854 but sadly now an art gallery. If you continue past the church to the marina you will spy a number of pretty boats and the majestic Royal Naval Museum. The museum was sadly closed at the time I visited but looked as if it would be a good experience. Hartlepool also has a drive-through Nandos. Need I say more.

Sunderland similarly has been unfairly dismissed as an ugly city. It is industrial and there is little to redeem the city centre, although have another look at The Elephant Tea Rooms as you go past. Beyond the city centre though there are some pretty spaces. Mowbray Park Gardens, for example, was created in the 1830's and won best park in Britain in 2008. Its a lovely place to spend some time. And the surrounding heritage areas make for a nice walk. 

Seaham and the Coast

Being in County Durham means proximity to a glorious coast line. There are beaches for every audience in County Durham. Roker has a beachside pub, Seaham has a sandy strand, but there are also several miles of quieter coastline. I really enjoyed an afternoon at Limekiln beach, and got quite lost exploring the coast at Hawthorne Dean. Seaham is a mere 15 miles from Durham city centre and has a Saxon church (sadly closed when I visited), many icecream parlours and a slightly strange WWI memorial. Seaham has several nice beaches and lots of free parking, its a strong recommend from me.

North Pennines and nature walks

Let's say for some inexplicable reason you are tired of County Durham's coast, what now? Well County Durham won't disappoint as there is plenty of natural beauty inland too. I did not visit Barnard castle (ahem!) but I did go to the North Pennines AONB and found it to be worthy of the name. As with the likes of Seaham there is lots of free parking in the area. There are walks to suit all types of walker. I did a little circular route of 7 miles, encountering cattle and horses, a river and the hill top. It was an enjoyable time but particularly facilitated by an afternoon tea in the nearby village of Quebec. 

So, that was County Durham and the North East - I found plenty to keep me busy in the seven weeks I was there. You would probably find more if you visit at a time the country is not plagued by pandemic. In my next instalment I'll tell you all about my fortnight in North Wales.

Freiburg and Guildford: Twinned Cities

Freiburg: City of faces
I went to Freiburg because my friend May was going there. I have to say I didn't really know about its history but I sure did enjoy it. Think cobbled streets, with gentle inclines in the towns, mountains in the background. I enjoyed visiting the Gothic minster (we didn't climb the tower as the weather was bad), eating würste, buying curiosities in the Minster Market and drinking cocktails in the evening. Whilst exploring we came across numerous anthropomorphic faces from mermaids, to gargoyles and lions.

Cocktails always aid creativity - my fruit boats

The Augustiner Museum; a modern museum considering the art and culture of Freiburg from the Baroque through to the modern-day is a real treasure. Their stock is vast with tapestries, the most representations of Jesus I've ever seen as well as an organ, stained glass windows and gargoyles to boot! Although the content was really old, the layout was very modern and designed to purpose. The gargoyles were positioned so you could see them from a distance as they would be in situ but also close-up from the gallery.

Secondly, I wanted to tell you about a bookshop I visited. I don't know how you feel about bookshops.  For me, the smell of antique bookshop is like catnip (to a cat!). I cannot resist.
I looked in the window and knew I had to go in.

I asked May to restrain me.

We went in. They had loads of books on Anthropology and Material Culture and several travel books arranged according to locality. One book we found was a Baedecker of the Rhine Land from 1939. It was geographically relevant and was full of references to the Glory of Hitler - quite an unusual discovery! Unfortunately the price was also outside the usual range for my trip - aka all my euros. So I left the shop, but not before I bought this postcode from 1906!

From Freiburg with love - the message is written in pencil round the outside!

Guildford: Heritage, public and private
I visited my friend Bec and spent several hours exploring. There are lots of historical buildings in Guildford centre from the Tudor Rose Restaurant to the Alms Houses, Holy Trinity church, and Abbots Hospital. I found something to climb, this time a Norman Castle tower! I paid £3 to view an exhibition, watch a video (from 1995!) and then climb the tower - this seemed a reasonable fee for the upkeep of such ancient heritage. I don't really know when, or why this obsession with climbing high ancient things came about. I can't help but wonder whether it has something to do with being so small and always looking up at things. There's something quite novel about observing cities from above.

Next I walked out to Guildford Cathedral, passing the road where my grandparents used to live. There were a few subtle changes. The road sign now featured a subtitle 'no access to university' and at the bottom of the road a shisha bar had opened. I wondered what my Grandpa would have made of those changes.

Guildford Cathedral itself is not like many of the other places of worship I visit. It was originally designed in 1930 and was finally completed in the 1960's. The angels on the entrance to the nave were strangely reminiscent of the angels at Coventry, turns out they are both designed by John Hutton. Usually when I visit a Cathedral it is for its Medieval history, the sanctity of ancient places of worship and of course a decent church tower. This time my visit was incredibly personal; my grandfather was a Cathedral Guide and it was a really special place for him. Sat in the Lady Chapel I found myself transported back to my own experiences some 12 years ago at my grandmother's funeral. That too is a history and a heritage, but a much more personal one; it is mine I have both ownership and authorship over it. Not everyone gets a museum or exhibition in honour of their history.

Finally, sorry for disappearing on you all! My weekends have been manic. There has been much to discuss: I've read 4 great books, done lots of thinking on social action and exploitation, experimented with poetry at the seaside and taken 2 people on exciting tours of London over the last 6 weeks. I am not sure there will be time to write on all of these. Especially as I am off to France in just over a week!